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Vacation in Portugal the Less-Obvious Way

August 10, 2018 3:37 PM
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Travelers are mobbing the country’s coast in record numbers. But for fewer tourist hordes, deeply rooted charm and one hell of a stargazing party, head to the rural heart of the Alentejo

ON MY FIRST NIGHT in Lisbon just over two decades ago, my friend Gonçalo brought me to B. Leza, an African nightclub housed at the time in a crumbling 16th-century palace. In ballrooms and courtyards with dim chandeliers and peeling paint, I fought jet lag to drink and dance late into the night. Bef...

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