World Trip to French Guiana

February 13, 2015 1:33 AM

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World Trip to French Guiana

STANDING ON THE BANKS of the Maroni River, I look across the brown choppy waters from Suriname to French Guiana as ferrymen hustle for my business. It’s too far to make out St.-Laurent-du-Maroni in much detail, just a few mustard-colored buildings, a communication aerial and low-rise warehouses by a jetty.

I board the Psalm 23, one of the narrow motorized dugouts that dart across the river for a greasy €5. A dozen passengers cram between striped nylon holdalls, woven baskets of vegetables and yellow plastic canisters. This is a busy waterway for locals: The Surinamese head east to use European schools...

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