Why 2013 Burgundy Is Better Than Expected

January 23, 2015 10:48 AM

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Why 2013 Burgundy Is Better Than Expected

STANDING OUTSIDE the sunken cellars of Domaine Marc Colin in Gamay, a small hamlet on the boundary of the Burgundian village of St.-Aubin, you get a clear outline of the steepness of the valley it sits in. This is where many of the appellation’s best vineyards are located. The white wines especially impress, with the Chardonnay grape taking on a pale gold color and possessing a fresh, racing acidity.

As we look up the valley, my tasting companion for the day, Toby Morrhall, buyer for the Wine Society, shares his theory about what makes the wine from this region so good. The valley of St.-Aubin climbs into the northeast, allowing cold air to come down and cool the grapes. The steep gradient has, ...

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