ALMOST ANY PARENT of a finicky kid has been there. You’re in a restaurant with proper, adult, interesting food. You’ve ordered diver scallops aptly plated with a bright sea-buckthorn emulsion; the kitchen was good enough to bring your young charge a plate of buttered egg noodles. Your scallops are faultless, sweet and saline. And yet your eyes keep wandering to the monochrome tangle on your child’s plate. You take one bite—just to make sure the food’s not too hot. And then you take another. Because the truth is, few things in this world are as satisfying as a simple plate of noodles—by which I mean the thoroughly unglamorous, vaguely Mitteleuropean, flat egg noodles found on kitchen tables and supermarket shelves from Krakow to Milwaukee.
“I get at least one order a night for egg noodles with butter for a kid, and I do often see the parents picking at the bowl,” said chef Bonnie Morales, whose Portland, Ore., restaurant, Kachka, has garnered national attention for its menu of zakuski—Russian drinking food. Of the egg noodles beneath ...
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