Roegels sails high on Houston's rising barbecue tide

April 20, 2015 7:59 PM

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There is brisket. Then there is brisket that can turn a Texan feral, so that she becomes, for a few golden minutes, a heedless meat-scarfing animal - one with fingers daubed in slowly rendered beef fat and a salty explosion of crushed black peppercorns.

That's the kind of brisket being served up at Roegels Barbecue Co., an engaging mom-and-pop shop emblematic of the barbecue renaissance that has swept through Houston in the past few years. The swell of public interest and barbecue scholarship in Texas has created a rising tide that is lifting many ...

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