THE BAREISS, a cosseting hotel in the pretty Black Forest village of Baiersbronn, has been run by the same family for three generations. It is a monument to Germany’s Wirtschaftswunder (postwar prosperity). The hotel has several restaurants, including the Restaurant Bareiss, where chef Claus-Peter Lumpp has won three Michelin stars for his modern European cooking; a variety of good-looking dining rooms reserved for hotel guests; and the Dorfstube. This last, the snug, warmly wood-paneled, ur-gemütlich stube (tavern), caters to a mix of locals and hotel guests like me, who love its authentic regional dishes and the nostalgia they induce.
On a recent visit, I knew what I’d be having even before the dirndl-skirted waitress came to my table. A very old craving had brought me here: I wanted a bowl of Maultaschen, one of my favorite German dishes since I first tasted it on a bitter cold night in late December, 30 years ago.