Radio Milano's chef Jose Hernandez blossoms

March 24, 2015 3:53 PM

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Every time I descend the staircase from Radio Milano, the new contemporary Italian restaurant attached to CityCentre's Hotel Sorella, I find myself thinking the same thing: Jose Hernandez is the most underrated chef in Houston.

I've thought so before, when Hernandez brought superior French food to the far suburbs at La Balance in Katy, a partnership that turned out to be far too brief. (Hernandez's exacting standards make him temperamental, a quality that, as a diner, I can understand.) I've admired the precision of his im...

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