Praise the braise: Michael Ruhlman’s cookbook gives a new look to an old technique

April 14, 2015 1:48 PM

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Praise the braise: Michael Ruhlman’s cookbook gives a new look to an old technique

The morning after I made Beef Brisket Carbonnade, my house smelled wonderful. The lingering fragrance of slow-cooked beef and sautéed onions reminded me of the midday Sunday dinners of my childhood, with main dishes that simmered while my family was at church.

The brisket was the first of four meals I made from Michael Ruhlman’s new cookbook, Ruhlman’s How to Braise: Foolproof Techniques and Recipes for the Home Cook (Little, Brown and Co., $25). It revived for me a way of cooking that I had nearly forgotten.

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