Octavia Spencer, Miranda July and More on Courage

February 26, 2015 4:32 PM

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Octavia Spencer, Miranda July and More on Courage

“When I was starting to surf growing up, I was frightened by waves—I was very scared. I was extremely intimidated, because I was not a good swimmer. But my confidence really built with time, along with my passion, determination and learning. I think everyone has that ability within themselves to be courageous. It’s a matter of exercising it and applying it in life. Knowledge helps a lot too. A lot of people experience an uncomfortable feeling about being in the ocean because it’s very powerful and it’s an unknown for them. You need a lot of experience to understand and read the ocean. Part of understanding the ocean is knowing your limits. The challenge we have in big-wave surfing is you want to perform at your very best when the waves are huge, but we’re all scared of drowning. It’s about how to find waves, being as safe as possible and wanting to take the risk. The reward is in that as well.”

“My approach to working with military veterans is, to really heal somebody, to have a huge impact on somebody’s life, you can’t accomplish that by taking them skiing or fishing for a day. To really, truly heal them, you have to put them back in harm’s way. You have to get them to push themselves to ...

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