Naderi brings solid pan-Asian fare to Heights

November 18, 2014 10:16 PM

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Fried calamari, so ubiquitous as a first course on Houston menus, is not the kind of dish that makes my heart beat faster. It's a challenge to bring something fresh and fun to this warhorse, and I should have known that Roost chef Kevin Naderi would be up to it at Lillo & Ella, his new Asian-themed restaurant in Garden Oaks.

Diving through the heap of tender squid rings and squiggles of puffed rice vermicelli, I chopsticked up cashews and thin squares of sweet-tart pineapple speckled with black sesame. Feathery fronds of cilantro, Thai basil and mint snaked through, and a unifying bang of lime-and-red chile sauce came w...

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