Main Kitchen brings quirky touch to hotel food

February 3, 2015 4:46 PM

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Glossed with olive oil, the pale pink crescents of fresh Gulf amberjack hopscotched across a plate at Main Kitchen, looking much like all the other raw-fish crudos that are semi-obligatory on modern Houston menus. Wispy jalapeño rings cartwheeled across the composition. The inevitable microgreens bristled here and there.

One bite told me this was not crudo business as usual: Pickled shallot lent a deep, twisty savor to the dish, and fragrant kaffir lime transformed the olive oil into something exotic. Tart yuzu and cool cucumber chimed in to complete the land-to-sea flavor circle. And what were those brilliant pinpo...

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