The Leek Shall Inherit the Earth: Three Delicious Winter Recipes

March 6, 2015 5:00 PM

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The Leek Shall Inherit the Earth: Three Delicious Winter Recipes

I KEEP A RUNNING list of cookbooks I’d like to see written. It includes one from chef Rita Sodidedicated solely to lasagna. Every time she puts a new version on the menu at her Greenwich Village restaurant I Sodi, I swear it’s better than the last. First came her Bolognese, then the artichoke, and the chestnut. But the one that messed with my head was the leek lasagna. I never would have guessed the wallflower of the allium family could hold its own as it did, and so beautifully, vying for attention with the béchamel and sheets of pasta.

More than the other members of its genus—onions, shallots, garlic, chives and scallions—leeks have a vegetal quality. They’re larger than the rest, and milder; they warrant billing as a featured ingredient, not just a flavoring agent. They have the umami attributed to their cousin the onion, but the...

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