FOR TEXAS-BORN chef Josef Centeno, the meals prepared by his great-grandmother were an education as well as a regular source of comfort. Amá, as he called her, was a native of Puebla, Mexico, and her light, simple cooking—a far cry from the melted-cheese-smothered version of Mexican food served in many stateside restaurants—reflected that. She was such an inspiration that Mr. Centeno named his restaurant Bar Amá after her, and it was on her enchiladas that he based this recipe, his third Slow Food Fast contribution.
What He Is Known For: Blending a broad spectrum of global cuisines with abundant adventurousness and zero pretentiousness. Effortlessly moving between casual and white-tablecloth dining.