An Insiders’ Guide to Delhi, India

February 26, 2015 9:20 PM

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OLD DELHI, NEW DELHI. It is easy to think of the sprawling metropolis of Delhi, which encompasses both, as cleaved neatly into two halves: After all, New Delhi has the broad, orderly boulevards laid out by English architect Edwin Lutyens in the early 20th century for India’s new capital, while the tangled streets and hurly-burly atmosphere of Mughal-era Chandni Chowk market are typical of dusty Old Delhi.

But “New” Delhi is hardly new. It’s a modern city built upon the ashes of at least seven earlier ones, which rose and crumbled over a millennium. Though they’re gone, vestiges of them remain: The imposing Red Fort, home to the Mughal rulers for nearly 200 years; the graceful 15th-century domes that ...

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