Freezer-to-Table Recipes - WSJ

FRESH ISN’T ALWAYS better. Though excitement runs high each spring as a new crop of green peas hits farmers’ markets, the season is short—and often not so sweet. Yes, just-harvested peas are sublime, but also extraordinarily fragile; once they’re picked, their sugar content quickly converts to starch. Flash-freezing peas as close as possible to the moment when they’re plucked from the vine is the best way to preserve their flavor, and their nutrients, too.

A dish with the unpromising name of mushy peas showed me the way. My epiphany occurred one winter in the 1990s at J. Sheekey, the wood-paneled, leather-banquetted seafood standby in London’s West End. Knowing that the mushy peas at British chip shops are typically made with the dried, starchy and, t...

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