Chicken Ranch fare shows beauty of simplicity

February 24, 2015 4:40 PM

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Is there an aroma friendlier and more reassuring than that of rendered chicken fat?

This is the question that occupied me as I drove off on a recent evening from The Chicken Ranch, Joshua Martinez's new fried-chicken shack in Sunset Heights. White cardboard boxes full of fried-to-order bird ranged across my back seat, and every time I hit a bump or took a curve, warm fresh waves of...

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