Can Brunello Match the Charms of Bordeaux?

March 12, 2015 3:55 PM

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Can Brunello Match the Charms of Bordeaux?

IT’S BEEN MORE THAN two years since a disgruntled employee of Case Basse di Soldera broke into the Tuscan estate’s wine cellars in the middle of the night, turned on the taps of 10 large vats and let the equivalent of 84,000 bottles of valuable wine drain away. He’s now serving a four-year jail sentence but for lovers of Brunello di Montalcino, the damage is irreversible. Nothing can bring back those lost six vintages (2007-2012) of some of the world’s best Sangiovese.

I was thinking about Case Basse di Soldera’s owner, Gianfranco Soldera, recently as I tasted my way around more than 60 bottles of Brunello’s 2010 vintage. It was his wines, which I first sipped in a cellar in Scotland during the bitterly cold winter of 2006, that first introduced me to the breadth ...

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