I made a dish of skate and scallops in a lemon brodetto this weekend. It was a meditation on our own transcendence in a way. Roasted skate and lightly-seared scallops atop a bed of browned pumpkin, all floating in a chicken broth simmered with a puree of lemons and oregano and marjoram.
It was delicious. It was satisfying in a way that a summer's meal never could be. It was rich and warming without the heft of a winter's braise. It was a sign of the Oso Buccos, the stews and tagines to come, but not until we have the long nights of wintry weather that it takes to truly enjoy them.